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Trường DCGiá trị Ngôn ngữ
dc.contributor.advisorHoàng, Hải Anh-
dc.contributor.authorNguyễn Phương, Thảo-
dc.date.accessioned2019-07-24T09:09:33Z-
dc.date.available2019-07-24T09:09:33Z-
dc.date.issued2019-06-
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/ULIS_123456789/2163-
dc.descriptionABSTRACT This thesis is a humanities-oriented research that explores a cultural phenomenon called “It” girl identity that emerged in the American youth scene and the particular case of Kendall Jenner, a young, influential celebrity, whose performance of this identity visibly manifests and contributes to the development of the phenomenon. It sets out to construct the networks of meanings that constitute the sensibility of this identity in American culture, by describing and investigating the participation of three prominent “It” girls in the 20th century, who are Clara Bow (1920s), Edie Sedgwick (1960s), Chloë Sevigny (1990s). The participation of each “It” girl is governed by the historical context and networks of meanings and events in which she resides and emerges, thus, necessitates careful examination. The participation is also determined and characterised by the particularities of each “It” girl. The study reveals that, the narrative of “It” girl identity is dictated by the media, as this identity is born by the media and its participants are all chosen by the media. It comes to argue that the following networks of meanings make sense of “It” girl identity: the changing modes of femininity as constructed and propagated in the media, the social, economic, political changes in the youth scene, particularly concerning young women, the changes in fashion or fashion-related scene, and how each “It” girl, with their particularities, participates in that identity. It comes to generate a consistent set of codes that constitutes the identity. Then, it proceeds to investigate how Kendall Jenner, as an “It” girl of the current globalised, post-feminist and technologically-reigned world manifests and contributes to the sensible construction of the identity. It concludes that Kendall Jenner is a successful presentation of the identity and that the new networks of meanings associating with “It” girl are the manifestation of “new” and successful femininities, the embodiment of female success and an implication of women exploitation.vi
dc.description.abstractABSTRACT This thesis is a humanities-oriented research that explores a cultural phenomenon called “It” girl identity that emerged in the American youth scene and the particular case of Kendall Jenner, a young, influential celebrity, whose performance of this identity visibly manifests and contributes to the development of the phenomenon. It sets out to construct the networks of meanings that constitute the sensibility of this identity in American culture, by describing and investigating the participation of three prominent “It” girls in the 20th century, who are Clara Bow (1920s), Edie Sedgwick (1960s), Chloë Sevigny (1990s). The participation of each “It” girl is governed by the historical context and networks of meanings and events in which she resides and emerges, thus, necessitates careful examination. The participation is also determined and characterised by the particularities of each “It” girl. The study reveals that, the narrative of “It” girl identity is dictated by the media, as this identity is born by the media and its participants are all chosen by the media. It comes to argue that the following networks of meanings make sense of “It” girl identity: the changing modes of femininity as constructed and propagated in the media, the social, economic, political changes in the youth scene, particularly concerning young women, the changes in fashion or fashion-related scene, and how each “It” girl, with their particularities, participates in that identity. It comes to generate a consistent set of codes that constitutes the identity. Then, it proceeds to investigate how Kendall Jenner, as an “It” girl of the current globalised, post-feminist and technologically-reigned world manifests and contributes to the sensible construction of the identity. It concludes that Kendall Jenner is a successful presentation of the identity and that the new networks of meanings associating with “It” girl are the manifestation of “new” and successful femininities, the embodiment of female success and an implication of women exploitation.vi
dc.description.tableofcontentsTABLE OF CONTENT CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION -------------------------------------------------------1 Background of the Study----------------------------------------------------------1 Research Problems & Questions-------------------------------------------------2 Mode of Inquiry --------------------------------------------------------------------7 Significance of the Study ---------------------------------------------------------7 Overview of the Chapters---------------------------------------------------------8 CHAPTER 2: “IT” GIRL IDENTITY IN AMERICAN CULTURE THROUGHOUT THE 20TH CENTURY----------------------------------------------9 How “It” Girl Identity Was Navigated-----------------------------------------10 1920s: The Arrival of the “New Woman”-----------------------------10 Changing Modes of Femininity in Mainstream Media: Hollywood’s Flapper Movies-----------------------------------------------------------13 How “It” Movie and Its Constituents Navigated “It” Girl Identity-14 “It” Girls in the Fashion Scene--------------------------------------------------19 “It” Girl Edie Sedgwick-------------------------------------------------19 Fashion Media in Post-war Era: Women as Women, Housewives and Mothers---------------------------------------20 Revolution in Femininity: Youth & Sexual Freedom--------23 Edie Sedgwick: Defining the Authentic Look----------------29 “It” Girl Chloë Sevigny--------------------------------------------------35 Where Riot Grrrl Emerged: Entrepreneurial Youth Culture & Punk Feminists---------------------------------------------------36 Riot Grrrl Movement: The Reconfiguration of Feminism, Girlhood and Girls’ Culture------------------------------------38 Sassy Magazine: Redefining the Feminine Self--------------40 Second-hand Style in in Youth Entrepreneurial Subcultures: Where the Girls At-----------------------------------------------43 Chloë Sevigny: “An “It” Girl With a Street-smart Style And a Down-low Attitude”-------------------------------------------45 CHAPTER 3: MODELLING INDUSTRY IN SOCIAL MEDIA ERA NEW FEMININITIES?-------------------------------------------------- 50 “Instagirl” - Supermodel Kendall Jenner: How Social Media Platform Instagram Changes Modelling Industry ---------------------------------------52 Celebrity Feminism in Contemporary Media---------------------------------54 Post-feminism in Contemporary Media Culture------------------------------56 Feminism & Post-feminism-------------------------------------56 Post-feminist Sensibility----------------------------------------59 CHAPTER 4: HOW KENDALL JENNER VISUALLY MANIFESTS NEW, SUCCESSFUL FEMININITIES-------------------------------------------------------64 The “Authentic” Look-----------------------------------------------------------64 The Feminine Body--------------------------------------------------------------65 Investigating the “Authentic” Look--------------------------------------------68 CHAPTER 5: CONCLUSION----------------------------------------------------------74 REFERENCE -----------------------------------------------------------------------------77 LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1 Two women — with their dates — sat on a bed in a petting party in Chicago, circa 1928. (Kirn Vintage Stock/Corbis, n.d)………………………...11 Figure 2 A flapper in the 1920s (Monet, 2019)…………………………………12 Figure 3 Women in New York street, 1920s (Carapiet, 2018)………………….13 Figure 4 Clara Bow as Betty Lou flirting with her boss in a scene in movie "It" (1927)………………………………………………………………...…………16 Figure 5 Betty Lou (Clara Bow) in a black, sleeveless, low-cut neck dress in movie "It" (1927) …………………………………………………...…………..17 Figure 6 Betty Lou (Clara Bow) in movie "It" (1927), presented flappers’ aesthetics (short bobbed hair & heavy makeup)………………………………..17 Figure 7 “The Bar Suit”, the most iconic design of Christian Dior’s “The New Look”, spring/summer 1947 (The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2004) …………………………………………………...……………….22 Figure 8 “La Cigale”, a design of Christian Dior’s “The New Look”, fall/winter 1952-1953 (The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2004)…22 Figure 9 Advertisement of dresses for misses in Sears catalog in 1952 (Olian, 2002) …………………………………………………...……………………….22 Figure 10 Article “You’re of 1950 if …”, Harper’s Bazaar, October 1950. The two key words are: elegant posture and sophisticate domesticity (Bertazzo, 2018)..…………………………………………………...………………………23 Figure 11 Twiggy - one of the most famous models in the 1960s - in Vogue, vol. 150, no. 2 (August 1, 1967)……………………………………………………..27 Figure 12 Fashion designer Sighten Harrgard and his fiancee modelled a unisex belted jacket and scarf with wide-legged double-knit trousers—March 1969. (Bettmann/CORBIS) …………………………………………...………………28 Figure 13 Mary Quant stamp in the 1960s (Royal Mail). Mary Quant was often considered as one of the inventors of the miniskirt (Foreman, 2014)…………..28 Figure 14 Edie Sedgwick in Life Magazine (1965) (Eberstadt, 1965)………....30 Figure 15 Edie Sedgwick in Vogue’s “Youthquakers” profile, August 1965 (Sellerio, 1965)………………………………………………………………….31 Figure 16 Edie Sedgwick in unpublished Life magazine photographs, 1965 (Kramer, n.d.) ………………………………………...………………………...32 Figure 17 Edie Sedgwick attended the Mod Ball with Andy Warhol in 1965 (Pinterest,n.d.)…………………………………………………………………..33 Figure 18 Edie Sedgwick modelled for Betsey Johnson (Pinterest, n.d.)….…...34 Figure 19 Chloë Sevigny in a “Put in on” article in Sassy magazine (1992) (Dewberry, 2015)…………………………………………………………….....45 Figure 20 Chloë Sevigny when she was an intern for Sassy magazine (1992) (Dewberry, 2015)……………………………………………………………….46 Figure 21 Chloë Sevigny modelled for Sassy magazine (1992) (Dewberry, 2015)………………………………………………………….…………………48 Figure 22 Kendall Jenner (right) and her half-sister Khloe Kardashian (left) on their private yacht in her Instagram post (Jenner, 2018)……………………..…66 Figure 23 Kendall Jenner sunbathed in her Instagram post (Jenner, 2019)….....67 Figure 24 Kendall Jenner at the Met (2017) in her Instagram post (Jenner, 2017)………………………………………………………………………….…67 Figure 25 Kendall Jenner shared about her skin problems on her Instagram account (Jenner, 2019)…………………………………………………...........................68 Figure 26 Kendall Jenner in sheer leggings and backless blouse (Harper's Bazaar, 2019)....................................................................................................................69 Figure 27 Kendall Jenner in a pink top and high-waisted jeans (Harper's Bazaar, 2019) ................................................................................................................... 69 Figure 28 Kendall Jenner in a polka dot bodycon dress (Ward, 2017).................................................................................................................... 70 Figure 29 Kendall Jenner in a low-cut neck suit (Harper's Bazaar, 2019)……...70 Figure 30 Kendall Jenner in an exclusive design of sequin, low-cut neck dress in her 21st birthday (Wallace, 2017)…................................................................... 70 Figure 31 Kendall Jenner in a cutting-out rock T-shirt with bralette as outerwear (Pinterest,n.d.)......................................................................................................70 Figure 32 Kendall Jenner wore a sheer shirt with opaque star-shaped patches on her breast in her Instagram post (Jenner, 2017)……………………….………..71 Figure 33 Kendall Jenner was spotted going out on the street in a sheer blouse without undergarment (Duggan, 2017)……………………………..…………..71vi
dc.language.isoenvi
dc.publisherĐại học Ngoại ngữ - Đại học Quốc gia Hà Nộivi
dc.subject" It " girl identityvi
dc.subjectvăn hóa Mĩvi
dc.subjectKendall Jennervi
dc.title"It" girl identity in American culture: A case of Kendall Jennervi
dc.title.alternative" It " girl identity trong bối cảnh văn hóa nước Mỹ : Câu chuyện của Kendall Jennervi
dc.typeDatasetvi
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